Taylors Falls Mike’s

I headed up to Taylors today with Brea for a nice relaxing day of being outside and climbing for fun. We ended up spending our whole time there in the Mike’s area.

We started by getting on Tiny Bubbles – a nice, technical V3 that you can find by following the cliff band past Mike’s all the way until just before it ends. It starts on two little crimps and climbs up a crack feature and then back left to a jug and the top. I have climbed this before and after warming up on it started trying the sit start to it. The sit starts on the left side of the face and adds about 4 or 5 really crimpy moves to get into the start of Tiny Bubbles. Took me a few tries to finally not have a foot skate off or have myself barn door off but I managed to do it. I really don’t know what the grade is… someone who’s done it can feel free to comment but I think it definitely adds a grade or two. Definitely not a classic even by Taylors standards… but it was well worth doing and fun to climb. Brea worked on Tiny Bubbles for awhile and managed to make good progress.. she will hopefully get the full line soon.

After Tiny Bubbles, we went back to the Mike’s boulder so I could try the sit to Mike’s Left. I was able to pull off the ground – which I wasn’t so sure I could do at first – but was ultimately unable to generate any momentum for the first move.. Going to need some more oomph for that one. I quickly decided instead to try to repeat the classic stand – Mike’s Left. After a few tries I was able to do it and was happy to get footage of myself doing it.. I have posted this problem in the videos section before, but will post it again to show the slightly different beta for the first move that seems to work well for tall people. There’s a foot way out right that works great for those of us tall enough to be able to use it to do the first move..


Mike’s Left – Taylors Falls from Neil Berget on Vimeo.

4 Responses to “Taylors Falls Mike’s”
  1. anthony:
    Apr 02
    2009
    11:56 pm

    I warmed up on that line you call Tiny Bubbles. I was thinking the stand was about v2 and the sit was maybe v3-v4. I think it really only adds one hard move into the stand-start. Funny foot beta required to get off the ground though.

  2. Neil:
    Apr 03
    2009
    9:17 am

    Hi Anthony-
    That could be right too.. I wonder if we’re talking about the same thing though.. I started about 8 feet left of the stand start and the starting foot beta from there wasn’t odd at all.

    Thanks for the comment!

  3. anthony:
    Apr 06
    2009
    4:29 pm

    Hey Neil,

    Yeah, I was out there again today and realized we had done different variations.. The one I was talking about was a direct sit start. The traversing line was cool though. I hadnt noticed that possibility before.

  4. anthony:
    Apr 06
    2009
    4:31 pm

    Oh yeah, in my opinion the traversing line is probably around V5 or so. Maybe a bit harder. The feet are just horrible.

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